Birds    Chinchillas     Turtles     Lizards     Snakes     Rabbits     Guinea Pigs

Chinchillas, once abundant in the wild in the high Andes Mountains of Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina, are now virtually extinct in the wild due to extensive trapping for their fur. They have recently become popular as pets due to their usually docile temperament, easy maintenance, and charming good looks.

They are a naturally social animal, and in the wild would live in groups ranging from 14 to 100 animals. Their blue/gray coat helps them to blend in with the rocky habitat of their natural home and their thick fur shields against the extreme cold of their environment.

Chinchillas are nocturnal (night-dwelling), plant eaters. In captivity they will be responsive if handled during the day and are normally very quiet, making only occasional squealing or chirping noises.

To keep their fur looking it’s best, chinchillas should be allowed to take a dust bath at least once weekly. Special “chinchilla dust”, available at pet stores, should be used for this process. Never use regular sand or dirt, and use “fresh” dust for each bath. Provide your pet chinchilla with about a half-inch of dust in the bottom of a glass or metal pan left in their cage for 10 minutes to an hour. Then sit back and enjoy the show as your furry companion rolls and frolics in its much-loved bath. Occasionally dust baths can cause eye problems for your chinchilla and if that should happen, dust baths should be temporarily stopped.

Chinchillas should be kept as caged, indoor pets. Their natural habitat is a cool, dry region so they do not tolerate humidity or temperatures above 80 degrees well. Keep cages in a well-ventilated, dry, draft-free place. Regular, supervised areas in a ‘chinchilla-proof” area should be provided. If done indoors make sure to avoid any areas with small spaces your pet can escape into, wires they may chew or any other dangerous objects.

Some chinchillas do enjoy exercising in an enclosed outdoor area. However, they should be supervised at all times and exercise should only be allowed in moderate temperatures in the evenings.

An adequate size wire cage for a chinchilla is about 16” x18”x12” for a single animal. Plastic cages should not be used as chinchillas need to chew to wear down their teeth, and will chew through the plastic, likewise, painted objects and surfaces should also be avoided.

Wire mesh bottoms over a removable tray (for cleaning) are fine, but solid bottomed cages lined with white pine or hardwood chips (not cedar chips or sawdust) can also be used.

Chinchillas need plenty or room and lots of levels to hop and play on so there is no such thing as a cage that is too big. You can provide your chinchilla with ladders leading to the different levels of the cage. Openings in the wire mesh should not exceed 1”x2” as chinchillas can squeeze out through impossibly small spaces.

Equipment that can be provided in your chinchilla cage are: ladders, an exercise wheel (if the cage is big enough), a pan for “dusting”, food and water dishes (preferably the type that attach to the sides of the cage), suitable chewing objects such as untreated wood (pine or fruit-tree) or a commercially available chew block, and a large nesting box for sleeping and hiding.

If kept clean, chinchilla cages have very little smell. These animals usually will eliminate in one particular area and once that area is established owners can simply line it more heavily and clean it more frequently.

As a general rule, cages for a single animal should be cleaned at least once weekly and disinfected once a month.

The best chinchilla diet is one composed of a combination of pellets, hay and fresh water. Purchase the pellet food ion small bags as it may lose it’s vitamin content if kept for more then 4 months and chinchillas only eat about 2 ounces of food per day. Use only chinchilla food, pellets made for guinea pigs or rabbits are not acceptable.

When feeding hay, use fresh, loose hay as opposed to the commercially available cubes. Use autumn harvested hay with caution as it can contain leaves from the highly toxic autumn crocus plant. Provide fresh water in a hanging glass bottle.

Plastic bottles can also be used but must be protected from the chinchillas chewing habit. Adding a half-teaspoon of fruit vinegar can help to stimulate a chinchilla’s appetite, but discontinue this if it has a laxative effect.

A few times a week you can give your chinchilla treats such as 1 or 2 raisins, half a peanut or hazelnut, a sliver of apple or carrot, a few sunflower seeds or a quarter-teaspoon of dry oatmeal. Do not give too many treats too often as it can result in obesity, diarrhea or organ function problems.

Chinchillas are alert, friendly, curious animals that are not so much trainable as they are tamable. Some can be taught to come when they are called to receive a treat or to climb on an owner, but they are usually too active to tolerate much cuddling. There independent nature makes them ideal for someone looking for a fun, friendly, furry pet that does not require as much attention as cats and dogs.

Most chinchillas do not tolerate cats, dogs or children well, so be cautious if introducing a chinchilla into that kind of environment. When first introducing a new chinchilla to your home, avoid over-handling at first as this may cause your pet much stress. Give him/her a day or two to explore and become adjusted to it’s new home before attempts at handling are made.

Chinchillas can become territorial about their cages so initial attempts at handling should be done calmly and slowly with no grabbing or sudden movements. Often times an owner can stick his/her arm into the cage and entice the chinchilla onto it with a raisin or similar treat held in the palm.

After the pet becomes accustomed to the arm, open the cage door and encourage him/her to climb onto your shoulder. With some initial patience and encouragement, chinchillas can become quite interactive with their owners.

Because chinchillas can become territorial, if you want more than one, it is best to purchase a female pair (or group) of the same age at the same time. Males are likely to fight if kept together so make sure you are getting two females.

It is a good idea to keep more than one chinchilla, as they are naturally social animals, and the contact with each other can prevent boredom and stress. A single chinchilla can be kept successfully but it requires much more interaction with its owner.

If owners do decide to try to introduce a new chinchilla into the cage of an existing pet, it should be done very gradually by initially placing them into separate cages set near enough together so that they can smell each other. After a few days, they can be allowed access to each other but they need to be supervised closely.

If they start to fight, they should be separated again, and another introduction attempted later. Be aware that some mature chinchillas will never accept another one into its environment and so the new pet may need to be housed separately permanently.

As with other "exotic” pets, chinchillas do not require annual vaccinations, but should see a veterinarian yearly for a thorough physical exam.

Common medical problems to watch out for include:

• Diarrhea
• Convulsions (due to stress or nutritional deficiency)
• Eye conditions
• Constipation
• Traumatic injuries from bites or contact with sharp edges
• Broken bones (chinchilla bones are very tiny and can easily be broken jumping from high areas)
• Stress-induced fur chewing
• Dental problems

A regular visit to a veterinarian can detect medical conditions that may not be readily visible to the owner and help your pet chinchilla live a happy healthy normal lifespan of 20-22 years.

Birds    Chinchillas     Turtles     Lizards     Snakes     Rabbits     Guinea Pigs

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